The number of cobblers (shoemakers) in Belgium has been falling for years: whilst Belgium was reported to have 805 in 2009, their number today has fallen to just 334, according to the Belgian trade federation Shoefed.
Not simply people who produce shoes from scratch, cobblers mostly repair footwear, whether these are broken heels, worn-out soles, or faded colouring. The sector's representatives cite today's throw-away culture and lack of training for the falling number of cobblers.
The EU is the world's largest importer of shoes. According to figures from the European Commission, this generates around 1.2 million tonnes of shoe-related waste each year after use. It is estimated that only 5% of this is recycled and 15%. The rest ends up in landfill.
Dispensible items
Short-term consumerism has impacted the shoe-making profession immensely. It is often cheaper to purchase a new pair of shoes than it is to have them repaired – if indeed they can be fixed. New shoe designs and trends are launched every day and the growing sneaker culture lures people to buy new shoes.
Nowadays, shoes are made with many synthetic materials, which are difficult to repair and take many years to biodegrade. In 2022, Scotland held Europe's largest trainer festival in Glasgow – Crepe City. The inaugural event attracted 2,000 people and showcased some of the world's rarest and most valuable footwear with prices ranging from €56 to several thousand.
A skilled cobbler can revive beloved but worn-out shoes. But a lack of training means that fewer people have the know-how to do this and the profession is less appealing than it once was, seen more as an anachronism than an important high street service. Once older cobblers retire there are rarely younger people to step into the ranks.
The growing absence of shoemakers can be seen around the world: "I used to have young people walk into my shop every week asking if I was hiring. They wanted to learn the profession. I haven't had anyone ask me that in 10 or 15 years," Mike Ohanian tells the Los Angeles Daily News.
There is still hope for the craft. With greater promotion campaigns and new training programmes, the profession could flourish again.
